Saturday, December 13, 2014

Stratification and Fashion - The Blurring of the Lines Between One Another

Before the Industrial Revolution, Fashion was a telltale sign of class. The rich wore beautiful fabrics that flowed and were extremely expensive. Particularly when everything for the rich was technically couture and bespoke.

The poor wore less expensive fabrics that were more of a plain and simple look showing what their lives were like, which was certainly not rich. That's not to say that they were not happy. And that's not to say that the rich were happy. Everyone is human whether they are from one class or the other, but most dream and aspire to be something else.

Now, with economic changes making material goods cheaper, the lines are blurred. (Leonhardt, Scott) (Shadowy Lines That Still Divide, New York Times). Trendy stores like Forever 21 and H&M have either taken to copying what is seen on the runway or out and out hiring couture and high-end ready to wear designers to do collaboration lines for stores such as Target, H&M, TopShop, JC Penny, etc. and anyone can look like they are from a higher class than they really are.
In fact, lower-class stores have created a world of illusion for those who want to buy into what they are selling.

For instance, H&M has had the likes of Stella McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld design lines for them that have sold out in hours. The same kind of frenzy has happened at Target. In fact, I at one time worked at Target and during the Phillip Lim sale it was a like a feeding frenzy.

From the H&M site, here is the list of all the fashion icons/designers that have done store/design collaborations:
  • 2005: Stella McCartney, Elio Fiorucci, Solange Azagury-Partridge
  • 2006: Viktor & Rolf
  • 2007: Roberto Cavalli
  • 2008: Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons
  • 2009: Matthew Williamson, Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel
  • 2010: Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin
  • 2011: Versace
  • 2012: Versace, Marni, Maison Martin Margiela
  • 2013: Isabel Marant
  • 2014: Alexander Wang
Some of the more popular Target Design Collaborations:
  • 2002-2008: Isaac Mizrahi. This was hugely successful for both and revived Mizrahi's career.
  • 2005: Fiorucci
  • 2006: Luella
  • 2007: Proenza Schouler
  • 2009: Rodarte
  • 2011: Missoni
  • 2012: Prabal Gurung
  • 2012: Neiman Marcus (which was almost too expensive even for Target customers)
  • 2013: Jason Wu
  • 2013: Phillip Lim
These kinds of collaborations have allowed other classes to have the opportunity to own something they feel is valuable: Designer clothing which = status.

This has not only happened in fashion, however. One has only to look at what Martha Stewart has been up to lately.

She started selling at K-Mart which was originally good for the lower-class shoppers or just shoppers looking for a good deal but in 2009 she realized that she did not want to be associated with that kind establishment anymore.  According to an article in Daily Finance, (Martha Stewart says K-mart is a bad thing, Daily Finance) "Stewart said she blamed the parent company of Kmart, Sears Holdings (SHLD), for letting her Martha Stewart Everyday line deteriorate in recent years. It has been kind of ripped off. I would say it has been diminished. The quality is not what I am proud of" she said.  (Cardona). Stewart has now had her own case of social mobility in the consumer world and moved onto Macy's, various craft stores and Home Depot with her line of products.

With these kinds of collaborations, it is rather hard to discern whether or not people are actually expressing their social position, or portraying the position they aspire to. If one can sew and imitate or get up before the sun rises and get to one of the opening days of stores doing designer collaborations, they can look like whatever status they want to.

 As more and more store/designer collaborations come about and people clamor for the items being sold to them, the lines will continue to blur between fashion and social status. The question is, will the illusion of riches continue to fool? Only time will tell. 

Bibliography

Works Cited

Cardona, Mercedes. "Martha Stewart says Kmart is a bad thing" Daily Finance. 16, September 2009. Web

Leonhardt, David and Janny Scott. "Shadowy Lines That Still Divide." New York Times. 15, May 2005. Special Section: Class Matters. New York. Web



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